Gym Bros and Dandies: The Evolution of Masculinity and Appearance explores the parallels between 19th-century dandyism, most notoriously exemplified by George “Beau” Brummell, and contemporary gym culture, in the 1980s commonly represented by bodybuilders and recently embodied by fitness influencers and gym bros. Despite their historical differences, both the dandy and the gym bro share a common obsession with appearance and social validation that is deeply rooted in their identity shaping and forms the foundation for their manifestations of masculinity. Drawing on both historical and modern perspectives, this book offers an analysis of how societal expectations not merely shape male identity, but how these ideals also intersect with broader shifts in power dynamics and socio-political developments. In doing so, it dismantles the notion that masculinity is fixed, arguing instead that it is a continuous negotiation. Such a negotiation does not come without friction; rather, it is a process that can be as much a struggle as it is a site of possibility. By examining masculinity as a socio-cultural and aesthetic construct living in a state of constant ‘becoming,’ Gym Bros and Dandies ultimately advocates for a form of masculinity that acknowledges the pressures men face today more than ever and imagines alternatives to pressing and rigid traditional norms, whilst also acknowledging the importance for men to remain connected to aspects of masculine tradition.

Karmen Samson (b. 1992) is a fashion researcher with dual master’s degrees in Fine Art and Design, and Arts and Culture. Her work explores the dynamic interplay between fashion and society, both as objects and as human experience, highlighting how cultural developments are shaped by fashion and vice versa. Through her practice, Karmen seeks to bridge the gap between theoretical research and creative application, fostering a deeper understanding of fashion as both an artistic and social phenomenon.