How can clothing better serve people with disabilities?

Drawing from research and personal interviews from industry representatives and consumers, author Susan Rothman Kolko examines the roles the fashion industry plays in supporting and encouraging inclusive products. The apparel industry has challenges but is moving towards realistic adaptive solutions in clothing. From equal rights to understanding identity in the social world, this book provides insight and inspiration for designers and a working vocabulary for diversity in clothing.

Adaptive Fashion is ideal reading for students studying fashion, disability, diversity, history, business, marketing, sociology, and technology.

• Cover
• Half Title
• Title Page
• Copyright Page
• Abstract
• Acknowledgements
• Table of Contents
• Preface
• Introduction
• Part I Understanding the adaptive clothing market
  • 1 The disability movement and adaptive clothing
    • Introduction
    • Learning objectives
      • Upon completion of this chapter, the reader will be able to:
      • A. Disability and the disability rights movement
      • B. Major disability rights court cases
      • C. Major disability laws
      • D. Disability rights and clothing
      • E. Where society is today
        • Contributed by Stephanie Thomas
    • Case study: Zappos
      • Dana Zumbo interviewed by Susan Kolko
    • Case study: Runway of Dreams
      • Mindy Scheier interviewed by Susan Kolko
    • Summary
    • Learning activities
    • Adaptive talk
    • Case studies
  • 2 Defining the adaptive market
    • Introduction
      • Data sources
    • Learning objectives
      • A. The market, fashion, and disability
        • 1. Demographic data
        • 2. Psychographic data
        • 3. Behavioristic data
        • 4. Geographic data
        • 5. Income data
      • B. Typical product attributes
      • C. Market research
        • 1. Magazines and trade publications
        • 2. Fashion Forecasters
        • 3. Stylists, social media influencers, bloggers, and disability advocates
        • 4. Fashion and inclusivity
        • 5. Laws and government policy
        • 6. Technology
        • 7. Sustainability
    • Case study: Slick Chicks
    • Case study: Melrose Trading Post
      • Natalie Iturbe Jackson interviewed by Susan Kolko
    • Case study: Unhidden
      • Victoria Jenkins interview by Susan Kolko
    • Case study: IZ Adaptive
    • Summary
    • Learning activities
    • Adaptive talk
    • Case studies
• Part II Addressing special clothing needs
  • 3 Understanding disabling conditions
    • Introduction
    • Learning objectives
      • A. Three basic groupings
        • Case study: Buck and Buck
      • B. Medical groupings
        • Case study: DEWEY clothing
        • Case study: FFORA
      • E. Uniforms for educational and military settings
        • 1. School uniforms
        • 2. Military uniforms
      • F. Paralympic Committee groupings
        • Case study: Francisco Postlewaite Munos
      • Rolland’s categories: Three courses of disability
        • 1. Progressive disabilities
        • 2. Constant disabilities
        • 3. Intermittent, or episodic disabilities
        • Case study: Eightfold Fox
    • Summary
    • Learning activities
    • Adaptive talk
    • Case studies
  • 4 Disabilities and clothing adaptation
    • Introduction
    • Learning objectives
      • A. Clothing for people who use wheelchairs
        • Case study: Rollettes
      • B. Clothing for people with limited dexterity
        • 1. Jewelry
        • 2. Velcro™
        • 3. Zippers
        • Case study: Magzip/Ankhgear
      • C. Clothing for people with access needs
        • Case study: Preventa Wear
      • D. Clothing for amputees, people with braces, and people with varied bone structures
        • Case study: Santa Monica College fashion student
        • Case study: Adaptive by Asiya
      • E. Clothing for people who are visually impaired and/or blind
        • Case study: Charlie Dorris
      • F. Clothing for people with developmental disabilities
        • Case study: Kozie Clothes
    • Summary
    • Learning activities
    • Adaptive talk
    • Case studies
• Part III Self-image, public image, disability, and fashion
  • 5 Self-image and disability
    • Introduction
    • Learning objectives
      • A. Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs
        • Maslow’s Hierarchy, fashion, and disability
      • B. The development of self-esteem and disability
        • Case study: Megami
      • C. Cultural ableism
        • Case study: Manikin
      • The fashion industry speaks out
      • D. Costumes and esteem
        • 1. Children and young adults
        • Veronika Ivanova interviewed by Susan Kolko
      • E. Swimwear and body image
        • Case study: MIGA Swimwear
    • Summary
    • Learning activities
    • Adaptive talk
    • Case studies
  • 6 Inspiring confidence, communication, and connection: Apparel for enhancing self-esteem
    • Introduction
    • Learning objectives
      • A. Self-Image, Disability, and Fashion
        • Case Study: Abilitee
      • B. Global awareness, disability, and fashion
        • Case study: Alter Ur Ego
      • C. Social media, disability, and fashion
      • D. Health and fitness, disability, and fashion
      • E. Universality, disability, and fashion
        • Case Study: PLAE
      • F. Global, social media, health and fitness, adaptive and Universal Design at the 2024 Paralympics
        • 1. Lululemon
        • 2. Skims
        • 3. UNIQLO
        • 4. Holyland Civilians
        • 5. Ralph Lauren
        • 6. Nike
    • Summary
    • Learning activities
    • Adaptive talk
    • Case studies
• Part IV Marketing program development
  • 7 “Fashioning” the social model of disability
    • Introduction
    • Learning objectives
      • A. The social model of disability
        • 1. Terminology: “disability” versus “impairment”
        • 2. “Fitting in”
      • B. The fashion industry’s challenge
      • C. The three “A”’s
        • Case study: So Yes
      • D. Two essential considerations
        • 1. “Labeling”
        • 2. Cost
      • E. Addressing adaptivewear costs: Government assistance and insurance policies
        • 1. Insurance policies and coverage
        • 2. Government programs
      • F. Three nations’ adaptivewear policies: A comparison
        • 1. United States
        • 2. Australia
        • 3. Canada
        • Case study: Sewn Adaptive
        • Case study: Myself Belts
    • Summary
    • Learning activities
    • Adaptive talk
    • Case studies
  • 8 Business development, marketing, outreach, and access
    • Introduction
    • Learning objectives
      • A. Elements of a successful business model inclusive of people with disabilities
      • B. Changing terms, changing images
        • 1. Words make a difference
        • 2. The ADA and the handicapped icon
      • C. Social style: A behavioral preference model for communications
        • 1. “Driving” style with a disability
        • 2. “Expressive” style with a disability
        • 3. “Amiable” style with a disability
        • 4. “Analytical” style with a disability
        • 5. SOCIAL STYLE™ and Fashion Summary
      • D. Case studies for thought and discussion
        • Case study: BILLY Shoes
        • Case study: Liberare
      • E. The disability market: Three essential elements
        • 1. Outreach to the adaptivewear market
        • Case study: Cur8able
        • 2. Education and the disability market
        • 3. Access and the disability market
    • Summary
    • Learning activities
    • Adaptive talk
    • Case studies
  • 9 Supplementary information: Notable figures and educational resources
    • Introduction
    • Learning objectives
      • A. Public figures, fashion, and disability
        • 1. Athletics
        • 2. Actors and models
        • 3. Politicians
        • 4. Musicians
        • 5. Artists
      • B. Activists, fashion, and disability
      • C. Education, fashion and disability
        • 1. Businesses as educators
        • 2. Educational programs
        • 3. High Schoolers
    • Summary
    • Learning activities
    • Adaptive talk
• Notes
• References
• Index

Susan Rothman Kolko is a professor at Santa Monica College.

Advance praise for Adaptive Fashion

Kolko has crafted a groundbreaking, essential look at the world of adaptive fashion from the perspective of entrepreneurs and designers who clearly see the intersection and importance of inclusivity, accessibility, empathy, and mental wellbeing and how the time for fashion forward thinking is now.

— Janeane Bernstein, EdD, Founder of Outside the Box, author of Better Humans - What the Mental Health Pandemic Teaches Us About Humanity

A must read for anyone passionate about creating a truly inclusive and equitable fashion industry. This book is a call to action for designers, brands, and consumers alike, urging us to re- think how we define beauty, style, and accessibility.

— Brenda Cooper, Costume designer and Emmy Award Winner The Nanny, author of The Silhouette Solution

There is finally a book acknowledging that adaptive apparel design should be included in the vocabulary of all fashion studies. The physical and emotional benefits of stylish, well-fitting clothes should be accessible to all, and through Susan Kolko’s research, this underserved market is brought forward.

— Lorrie Ivas Professor Fashion Design & Merchandising Santa Monica College, author of Pencil to Pen Tool: Understanding & Creating the Digital Fashion Image.

This book serves as a reminder that the development of personal style is an important part of identity, and applies to everyone. Making this analysis part of a fashion curriculum will add yet another dimension to any designers understanding of the customer.

— Ilse Metchek, President of California Fashion Association

Susan Kolko has opened a new perspective for people in the fashion industry, as well as disability activists. Adaptive Fashion stimulates innovative thinking about the aesthetics, functionality, and marketing of fashion. It is well- researched and full of great information.

— Susan Nero, PhD, Professor Emerita Management Studies Antioch University Los Angeles

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